season 1: episode 2 Puppy meet dog, or cat, or person

NOTE: Many of these episodes were recorded before the mandated social distancing. So our stories about being out and about, and our interactions during this recording were made before the Covid-19 pandemic. We are doing our part to practice safe and healthy practices as well as socially distancing. Now, time for the episode notes.

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Today's Topic: Introducing puppies into the home. Tools you can use to get them used to other dogs and peoples.

1. Top considerations when bringing new dogs into the house

• Take dogs for a long walk before having them meet. Watch body language to determine if it's time for them to meet. Start far away, and work up to being closer.
• Be mindful of dog size differences, small to big and big to small
• If you have a dog that doesn't like to be bothered while eating, have a good reinforcement strategy in place.
• Introduce new things slowly and not at once. Locations, events, sounds, activities.
• In multi-dog households, be on your guard.
• Always pick things up like toys and bones when other dogs are involved and gradually introduce the toys and bones into the environment.
• Puppies tend to be obnoxious to other dogs. Just because an older dog is tolerant, doesn't mean he enjoys interaction with the puppy.

2. Easy Ways to Tell If Dogs are Getting Along

• When a dog bares his teeth, it's just communication as long as the other dog reacts appropriately. Don't punish appropriate communication from the dog.
• Let the dogs work things out safely, and don't insert yourself where you don't really need to.
• Body language is all about the whole picture, not single signs like wagging tails, ears up, or hackles.
• The best way for a puppy to learn what is appropriate or not, is from an older dog who has clear communication. It's okay for the older dog to correct, as long as the puppy is learning from those social cues.
• If they are playing, make sure it's give and take and not one dog chasing all the time and another dog always being on the defensive.
• Don't pick up a little dog, but if you must don't just hold them up, put them down in a safe place from the bigger dog.
• Consider having a qualified trainer or behaviorist present when you introduce new dogs if you aren't confident in your ability to introduce new dogs.
• Action out of context. If a dog performs a behavior that has no logical reason, it's likely due to stress or anxiety. Shake-offs, drinking but not drinking, etc.

3. What About Other Animals Like Cats, Snakes, or Kangaroos?

• Have a safe place for the cat to go to that the dog can't access. And don't force interaction for either cat or dog.
• Counter-conditioning the dog to the cat. (seek trainer help)
• These tips apply to all animals not just cats.
• Train the cat to target high spaces that are out of reach of the dog.

British Accents are a No-Go. Even though Katie spoke in a British accent her entire 4th grade year.

4. Introducing the Puppy to People

• Let the dog decide when to interact with people, not the other way around.
• A dog backing away or being fearful does NOT mean keep trying to pet the dog.
• Cue off the dog, don't try to make him/her fit into your agenda. You are an advocate for that dog.
  
• Give the dog a choice, let them have the space that they need and want.
  
• Let the dog engage in interactions, if they don't, have the stranger pretend the dog doesn't exist. 
• Holding a hand to a nervous dog to "smell you" is only giving a nervous dog an easy target to bite.
• Dogs are fight of flight, and on a leash are more likely to act out if scared or nervous and cannot flee.

5. How to help introduce the dog to people

• Give people clear instructions on how to approach, pet, and read the dog.
• Have only one person at a time meet your dog. More can be overwhelming.
• Don't have a bunch of people meet the puppy at once. Schedule visits for friends to meet the dog.
• Consider environmental issues with introducing dogs and puppies to people, such as children holding food.
• Treating a fearful or anxious dog can create worse problems. The food should come from you, not the scary people. Treats from scary things can make the situation even more scary.
• Pick a meet to not-meet ratio. For example, for every 3 "yes", have one "no" so that dogs don't have the expectation to meet every dog or person creating behavioral issues when they are older. For meeting dogs, try 3 no's to one yes.
  
  It's not up for us to decide what the dog likes or does not like. We should let the dog be itself and make decisions. We should respect those decisions. Set realistic expectations for older dogs to take some time adjusting to a new dog, they may not love each other right away.
  
  Recommended Reading For this Topic 

https://www.dogwise.com/canine-play-behavior-the-science-of-dogs-at-play/